Nosegawa Village
Located in the southwestern edge of Nara Prefecture, Nosegawa Village is a mountainous village with an average elevation of 700 meters, often referred to as "The Land of the Sky."
The village has a population of under 400, which makes it the least populated village on mainland Japan.
Being as the ever popular Koyasan is just a short car ride away, it's a wonderful destination to fully experience the Japanese countryside. Nosegawa offers a charming respite before or after your pilgrimage
Despite its small population, the village is rich in history, nature, romance, and human warmth. Nosegawa offers an escape unlike any other, a haven where avid hikers can conquer challenging trails, history buffs can delve into ancient stories, and couples can find the perfect romantic escape.
Nosegawa's unique charm awaits discovery, promising an unforgettable experience for every soul seeking solace or adventure.
Kumano Kodo and Koyasan
Part of the Kumano Kodo, namely the Kohechi trail runs straight through Nosegawa Village. The Kumano Kodo, a network of ancient pilgrimage trails in the southern Kansai region of Japan, holds profound historical and cultural significance, integral to the area's designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. These pilgrimage routes, known as Kodo, have served as sacred paths for over a millennium, connecting various spiritual sites across the Kii Peninsula.
Kumano Nachi Taisha
The Kumano Kodo is a unique pilgrimage system that, alongside the Camino de Santiago, enjoys the distinction of being a World Heritage Site.
Koyasan Okunoin Cemetery
At the heart of this sacred region stand the three Kumano shrines — Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha — collectively known as Kumano Sanzan. Pilgrims from all walks of life, including retired emperors and aristocrats, have been drawn to these revered shrines since the 10th century. Beyond facilitating access to these sacred destinations, the pilgrimage trails themselves are designed to provide a profound religious experience, often traversing challenging and even perilous mountain terrain.
Mt. Omine
In addition to linking the Kumano shrines, the Kumano Kodo extends its paths to connect with other significant sites, including Kyoto, Koyasan (headquarters of Shingon Buddhism), Yoshino and Omine (mountain worship centers), and Ise (Japan's most important shrine). While coastal trails have diminished due to development, several mountain trails and passes still endure, preserving the historic and spiritual essence of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes.
Kumano Kodo Kohechi
The Kumano Kodo Kohechi is a pilgrimage route that connects the two major sacred sites of Koyasan, the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, and the syncretic Grand Shrines of the Kumano Sanzan. This is the trail which passes through Nosegawa Village.
The Kohechi is a challenging route that crosses four 1,000-meter-high mountain passes: Mizugamine Peak, Obako-toge Pass, Miura-toge Pass and Hatenashi-toge Pass. Along the way, there are many remnants of the old Kodo, including stone statues, Jizo statues, moss-covered stone pavements, teahouse ruins, and house ruins. The route passes through mostly mountainous areas, providing an opportunity to experience a traditional walking pilgrimage. Sound preparation is key when traversing the Kohechi. The trek will take 4 days and should not be considered by beginners or anyone lacking the required fitness levels.
One of the best resources online for all things Kumano, is the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau homepage. If you are planning on visiting the area and need some expert advice, we highly recommend you contact them.
Nosegawa Village
Hotel Nosegawa
Nestled deep in the Kii mountains alongside the crystal clear waters of the Kawarabi-gawa River, Hotel Nosegawa offers a serene escape with spacious rooms, hot spring baths, a healthy breakfast and delicious evening meals served with local wild meats, amago and vegetables. The hotel also has a camping ground and huts which are popular with young families in the summertime.
The convenient shuttle service to and from Koyasan makes it a breeze for Kumano Kodo hikers and the shuttle service will also pick you up from the Omata trailhead. As there are no public transport services which can bring guests here, this shuttle bus service is the life-blood of the hotel. What's more, the shuttle bus also can take guests to tourist attractions such as Kongobu-ji Temple and the Okunoin upon request.
The hotel staff are extremely friendly and despite only speaking basic English, they make every effort to make your stay as comfortable as possible. As you can see from the video, the rooms are clean and spacious and each comes with a closet full of extra bedding should you require. The hotel is surrounded by stunning natural scenery. A taste of the slow life and the crisp fresh air will have you feeling fully refreshed for the day ahead.
Shuttle times
The shuttle service departs Koyasan Station at 15:20 on weekdays and at 15:40 on weekends and Public Holidays
The shuttle service departs from the hotel at 10:00.
It is a 50 minute ride to Koyasan Station.
Please note that the shuttle service must be reserved at the time of booking.
Access:
Address: 426 Kitaimanishi, Nosegawa-mura, Yoshino-gun 648-0307, Nara Prefecture
Tel: 0747-380-011
Check-in: 15:00
Check-out: 10:00
Amago Farm
Omata Fishing Association
During our stay at Hotel Nosegawa we were treated to fresh amago fish for both dinner and breakfast. With our stomachs full and lungs full of fresh air, we headed out to Nosegawa's amago farm, just a 10-minute drive away from the hotel. Nestled along the river bank to the backdrop of lush mountain scenery, it's a picturesque scene
The amago that we enjoyed at Hotel Nosegawa were brought directly from here on the day.
There is a special pool here dedicated to servicing the hotel.
In 2012, the amago was designated as the official fish of Nara Prefecture. The water
used to raise the fish is sourced directly from the river, the purity of which is
said to be the secret to Nosegawa Village's amago being recognized as the best in Kansai.
Access:
Address: 104 Kitaimanishi, Nosegawa, Yoshino District, Nara 648-0307
Tel: 0747-380-224
Wasabi Farm Minami
Nosegawa Village is one of only a few places in the Kansai region that produce wasabi. The clean air and pure water required for wasabi to grow healthily are found in abundance in Nosegawa Village. The following mini-documentary provides a nice introduction to Minami Wasabi and the magical green vegetable in general.
Another reason why Nosegawa's wasabi is delicious is that it is propagated from seeds collected from native parent plants that have been carefully preserved in this region since ancient times. These seedlings, perfectly adapted to Nosegawa's unique microclimate, produce wasabi renowned for its intense pungency and subtle sweetness.
Matsutake Mushrooms
Nishida Matsutake Mushroom Association
Matsutake mushrooms, scientifically known as Tricholoma matsutake, are a prized and aromatic fungi species highly esteemed in Japanese and other East Asian cuisines. Renowned for their distinctive spicy, pine-like fragrance, matsutake mushrooms have become a symbol of autumn in Japan.
These mycological delicacies grow in specific symbiotic relationships with tree roots, primarily preferring the roots of pine trees, hence the name "matsutake," which translates to "pine mushroom." Highly sought after for their unique flavor profile and scarcity, matsutake mushrooms are often used in traditional Japanese dishes, enhancing them with a rich, earthy taste and a captivating aroma. It's not usual for matsutake mushroom to fetch over $500 per kilogram, roughly the same rate as for kobe beef.
People in Nara have been eating matsutake mushrooms for over a millennium. They are even mentioned in the Man'yoshu, Japan's oldest collection of poems from the Nara period.
Nosegawa village and its abundant natural environment are ideal for growing matsutake mushrooms and luckily on the day we visited, October 15th 2023, it happened to be "National Mushroom Day" in Japan and also matsutake mushroom harvesting day at Nishida Matsutake Mushroom Association.
We stopped by to take a look.
Sea of Clouds
The term "sea of clouds" refers to a meteorological phenomenon where a layer of clouds covers the landscape, creating the illusion of an ocean-like surface. This phenomenon is particularly breathtaking when observed from a high vantage point, making Nosegawa Village Nara's premiere location for seeing this natural wonder.
The formation of a sea of clouds involves several atmospheric and geographical factors:
Temperature Inversion: Typically, temperature decreases with altitude in the Earth's atmosphere. However, in certain conditions, a temperature inversion occurs. This means that there is a layer in the atmosphere where the temperature increases with altitude. This inversion traps moist air beneath, leading to the formation of clouds.
Moisture Source: For a sea of clouds to form, there needs to be a source of moisture. This can come from nearby bodies of water, such as lakes, rivers, or oceans. The moist air rises and condenses into clouds when it encounters the temperature inversion layer.
Geographical Features: The presence of geographical features like mountains or valleys plays a crucial role. Mountains, in particular, can lift moist air masses, causing them to cool and condense into clouds as they ascend.
Wind Patterns: Wind patterns influence the movement and distribution of clouds. If there's a consistent wind direction, clouds may accumulate on the windward side of a mountain range, creating the sea of clouds effect.
Stable Atmospheric Conditions: Stable atmospheric conditions contribute to the persistence of the sea of clouds. If the air is stable, the clouds are less likely to dissipate quickly.
Along the main road through Nosegawa, there are several places earmarked for observing the sea-of-clouds. The local council has erected little signposts to show passerby where to stop and these places are also clearly marked on local sightseeing maps. The most popular location is part of a lay-by with room for 10 cars or so. During Spring and Autumn, the times when the weather conditions are most ideal for the sea-of-clouds, you will find several cars parked up here every morning, with expensive camera gear set up to film or take time lapses. the other main spot is the large car park of Tateriko Jinja Shrine
Like with most things in life, you need a bit of luck but unfortunately, on the morning we visited, the sea-of-clouds didn't fully form. We woke up at 4am and after a quick coffee set out in the car and headed for the main lay-by to set up our camera gear. Usually, it would take about 30 minutes to get there, but driving in the pitch black along mountain roads requires you to slow down a little. On several occasions after turning yet another bend, we came face-to-face with a deer in the middle of the road, so it pays to drive slowly in these conditions and take your time.
In the dark, it is also difficult to spot the roadside sea-of-clouds signs. The large lay-by is at a junction with a large billboard and is the easiest to spot. The others less so. If you are on your own, we recommend you go to the larger lay-by area as scanning the roadsides looking for signposts while driving would not be a wise thing to do. Alternatively, you could make your way to Tateriko Jinja Shrine where the vantage point to view the sea of clouds is second to none.
Mitsubishi Motors has a great website outlining the probability of a sea-of-clouds forming for various places throughout Japan. Here's a link to the Nosegawa area. (Japanese only)
Live Camera Feed
At the sea-of-clouds layby, there is also an elevated observation deck and a live camera.
Click here to access the feed.
Access:
Address: Nosegawa, Yoshino District, Nara 648-0301
Taira no Koremori Rekishi-no-Sato
Taira no Koremori Historical Village
Nosegawa Village has 4 official mascots. The 2 main ones are Taira Koremori and Princess Tsuru (known affectionately as Koremori-kun and Tsuru Hime-chan) with 2 supporting characters Wasabi Sennin and Shiita Inu, born from the local specialties of Nosegawa Village namely wasabi and shiitake mushrooms. They support Koremo-kun and Tsuru Hime-chan in promoting the village.
Taira no Koremori Historical Village is a charming enclave in Nosegawa Village dedicated to the memory of Taira no Koremori. He was born in 1159 as the eldest son of Taira Kiyomori's legitimate son, Shigemori, and a prominent figure in the Taira clan. During his youth, Koremori trained in martial arts and military strategy, preparing himself for a life of leadership within the Taira clan
Creative Commons
The Genpei War
The Genpei War, a 5-year clash between 1180 and 1185, pitted the Taira clan, led by the charismatic yet at times brutal Taira no Kiyomori, against the Minamoto clan, seeking to regain imperial power. This epic civil war ultimately led to the downfall of the Taira clan, paving the way for samurai dominance under the Minamoto shogunate.
During the war, Koremori initially led the Taira to victory in several battles, including the Siege of Hiuchi in 1183. However, he also presided over several critical defeats, most notably the Battle of Fujigawa in 1180 and the Battle of Kurikara in 1183. These defeats were perhaps more due to circumstance rather than poor strategy, but this did not stop his reputation as a military leader from becoming irrevocably tarnished.
As outlined in The Tale of the Heike, the Taira clan ultimately fell at the hands of the Minamoto clan for control of Japan
Koremori's Beauty
Kenreimon-in Ukyō no Daibu (a Japanese noblewoman and poet of the time) wrote "While all the courtiers of the Taira clan were outstanding, Koremori stood out for his unparalleled beauty and kindness throughout history. Has there ever been anyone who didn't admire him?" She recalls when he danced the "Seigaiha," stating, "It reminds us of the example of Hikaru Genji."
People spread rumors about Koremori's beauty, describing it as overwhelming, comparable to the beauty of flowers. While it's natural for people to draw parallels to Hikaru Genji, Koremori's praise wasn't just due to his handsome appearance but also because of his exceptional dancing skills. Koremori excelled not only in dance but also in playing the flute and reciting poems.
Battle of Akama Strait at Dan no Ura
In 1184, 1 year before the end of the war, Koremori fled and hid in the area now known as Nosegawa Village after a devastating loss in battle. He made his way to Koyasan where he met with a holy man, Takiguchi Nyudo (Saito Tokiyori). Koremori becomes a monk himself and makes a pilgrimage to Kumano. It is said he rowed out to the sea near Nachi. He offered prayers facing the western Pure Land, chanting the nembutsu a hundred times. As he uttered "Namu" for the last time, he entered the sea and drowned.
This romantic death seems rather apocryphal and as such, several other theories about his survival into old age exist. One theory postulates that he died here in Nosegawa Village after wandering through the mountains of Kumano and Yoshino.
Although the grounds are well kept, Taira no Koremori Historical Village feels like a ghost town. There is nobody here. The park is surrounded by some houses, but for all intents and purposes, it feels abandoned - yet the grounds are obviously well cared for. You will have the place to yourself to wander freely and enjoy the majestic views from the memorial mound.
There is an office and a tea room but they are locked. The museum building which houses the diorama is open, but you will need to turn on the lights yourself. There are toilets on site too, which are undoubtedly cleaned regularly.
As quiet as this area is, come the end of July it is packed with 2,000 people who have come to enjoy the Taira no Koremori Fireworks Festival. The festivities include live music, food stalls and the launching of 3,000 fireworks into the starry night sky of Nosegawa Village.
Access:
Address: Taira, Nosegawa, Yoshino District, Nara 648-0306
Phone: 0747-37-2101
Hours: 09:00 - 17:00
Admission: Free
Tsuruhime Park
Tsuruhime Park stands as a tribute to a tragic heroine, a heroine born of he embers of the Genpei War and just like Taira no Koremori, linked to this tiny mountain village of Nosegawa.
At the entrance of the park there's a large period-looking building that is in fact Restaurant Tsuruhime which provides not only a rest and meals but various information about Nosegawa Village and a friendly host who is eager to assist his customers. Tsuruhime Restaurant is open between April and the end of November on Friday, Saturday, Sundays and national holidays. 10am - 3pm.
At the peak there is an 13m high observation deck sitting ontop a mini museum detailing the story of Tsuruhime. So who was this Tsuruhime?
Approximately eight centuries past, following the Battle of Dan-no-ura, the remnants of the defeated Taira clan dispersed, seeking refuge in the remote corners of western Japan. Nasu Daihachiro received a directive from the shogunate: "Ensure not a single Taira clan member escapes," leading him on a months-long quest that culminated in the discovery of a tranquil Taira enclave nestled deep in the mountains of Kyushu's Shiiba village.
Upon arrival in Shiiba, Daihachiro was struck by the stark contrast between the present humble existence of the Taira and their former opulence. The people of the Taira clan, who had once lived in luxury, were now desperately trying to survive on nuts and roots.
"Oh, how can I possibly kill these people?"
Despite his internal conflict, torn between duty to the shogunate and empathy for the clan's plight, Daihachiro hesitated to carry out the prescribed orders. Amidst this moral turmoil, he found himself captivated by Tsuruhime, the enchanting daughter of the clan, who reciprocated his affections.
Despite the constant threat of shogunate discovery, the two kindred spirits found solace and joy in the mountainous seclusion. However, Daihachiro's prolonged absence drew the shogunate's ire, compelling him to relocate to Kumano in the southern reaches of the Kii Peninsula. In a bittersweet farewell, Daihachiro bid adieu to Tsuruhime, promising to cherish her in his thoughts, even as the vast expanse separated them.
"Tsuruhime, if I don't go now, the clan will be discovered. We may never meet again. But no matter where I am, I will always think of you when I look up at the stars."
As Daihachiro vanished behind the mountainous horizon, Tsuruhime stood alone, her gaze fixed upon the distance. A year elapsed, and Tsuruhime's facade of cheerfulness crumbled beneath the weight of longing.
"Please, let me go to Kumano. I just want to see him again once more while I'm still alive."
Persuaded by her unyielding passion, the clan members granted her leave to embark on an arduous journey to Kumano, accompanied by a sole companion. Through treacherous terrain, across mountains and seas, concealing themselves from prying eyes, Tsuruhime's endurance waned, her body withering. Yet, propelled by the singular desire to reunite with Daihachiro, she pressed onward. Overcoming hardships, she reached the Yoshino mountains, arriving at Nosegawa Village. What faced her next was the formidable Mizuga Mine Mountain. With each step, she stumbled, rose, and fell anew until, at last, she conquered the summit.
At the pinnacle, exhausted and spent, Tsuruhime beheld a familiar starlit sky, reminiscent of nights shared with Daihachiro in Kyushu. As she succumbed to her fatigue, Daihachiro's words echoed in the twinkling stars, and Tsuruhime quietly departed, tears gracing her closed eyes. Many years later, Daihachiro, who faithfully gazed at the stars daily, learned of Tsuruhime's fate.
And now here stands Tsuruhime Park - named in honor of the tale's protagonist, Tsuruhime.
Tsuruhime Park stands as a tribute to the tragic heroine, utilizing the region's abundant nature. The park boasts a breathtaking vantage point at an elevation of 1180m offering a 360-degree panorama that, on clear days, extends as far as Awaji and Shikoku.
The bell tower looks out over the vast terrain below and invites visitors to ring it and make a wish. Due to the story of Tsuruhime and Daihachiro parting words
..."no matter where I am, I will always think of you when I look up at the stars"
astrophotographers come from far and wide to capture the night sky with the wishing bell in the foreground.
Access:
From the entrance on the main road, it is possible to walk up to the observation deck in about 10-15 minutes. It is possible to drive up as well, but the road is narrow and only wide enough for one car to traverse.
Address: 64-22 Hinokimata, Nosegawa, Yoshino District, Nara 648-0308
Phone: 0747-372-100
Hours:
Observation deck: 9:00 - 17:00.
Park & Bell Tower: 24hrs
Admission: Free
Tateriko Jinja Shrine
Tateriko Jinja Shrine is said to have been founded by Kukai when he established Mount Koya. This shrine is located on the summit of Mount Kojindake (elevation 1,260 meters), which stands almost in the center of Nosegawa Village. It offers some amazing views of the surrounding mountains and is a standout location to view the sea of clouds.
The shrine's exact founding date is unknown, but it is believed to have been established around the year 800 AD. Legend states that Kukai enshrined Homudawake-no-Mikoto and Hi-no-Kami here, deities associated with prosperity in business, fire, and the hearth. This makes the shrine a popular pilgrimage destination for business people and for those whose work incorporates the use of fire.
Reaching the shrine requires a dedicated climb up a steep and lengthy staircase, passing through 180 impressive torii gates along the way, reminiscent of the famed Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto.
The history of Tateriko Jinja Shrine is fascinatingly intertwined with Mount Koya. According to the "Sanbo Daikojin Ryakuenki," a historical record of the shrine, Kukai established it during the founding of Mount Koya, as mentioned above, circa 800 AD. He painted the Three Aragami (angry deities) on a wooden board and enshrined it here to protect and bring prosperity to esoteric Buddhism. This is a fine example of how Shinto and Buddhism operated in unison before the state forcibly separated them in the Meiji era.
Kukai. Integrated Collections Database of the National Museums, Japan
The government issued the Separation Edict ordering the dissociation of the Shinto and Buddhist divinities in 1868. Until then, the shrine bore the name "Hoshakuin" and maintained close ties with Mount Koya. These ties were formally severed and Hoshakuin was dissolved, its Buddhist images relocated and the shrine was renamed to its current name. Today, Tateriko Jinja Shrine remains a haven of peace and spiritual connection. Its stunning location, steeped in history and cultural heritage, offers a unique and enriching experience for visitors seeking tranquility, breathtaking landscapes, and a fresh connection to being.
Access:
Address: 347 Iketsukawa, Nosegawa, Yoshino District, Nara 648-0301
Phone: 0747-372-001
Hours: 24hrs. The shrine is not illuminated at night.
Admission: Free
Nara City to Nosegawa Village
There are buses running from Gojo city and Koyasan to Nosegawa Village. If you are coming from Gojo by bus, take a Nara Kotsu bus and alight at Kodaishita Bus Stop. From there, you will need to trek to your destination.
The most direct route to Koyasan is to take the Kintetsu line from Nara to Osaka-Namba and then walk 10 minutes underground to the Nakai Station. From there you will need to take the train to Gokurakubashi Station at the base of Mount Koya. It takes about an hour and a half. At Gokurakubashi Station, transfer to the Koyasan Cable Car which will carry you up the mountain in just a few minutes.
There is also an express bus service operated by Nankai Rinkan Bus. Although it concentrates on the Koyasan area, the number 11 runs from Koya Satation past Okunoin and The Nosegawa Village Hall towards Tateriko Jina Shrine.
If you want to get to Mount Koya on a JR pass (part way), you take the train to Oji, switch to the JR Wakayama Line and then alight at Hashimoto Station. At Hashimoto, you change to the Nankai Koya Line, but you have to pay for your ticket from this point.
Author: NARA Visitor Center & Inn